September 21st
Ernesto Korrodi left his mark across Portugal through several buildings he designed, but it was in Leiria that he settled and spent much of his life. Throughout the city, many iconic buildings bear his influence, whether through their original design or their restoration.
Ernesto Korrodi
Ernesto Korrodi was born in Zurich in 1870. While looking for his first job, he applied to an international public recruitment process through which 30 foreign teachers were selected to teach at Portuguese industrial schools.
The Portuguese minister Emídio Navarro hired him to teach technical drawing, in what would today be considered vocational education. He was initially posted to Braga, but during a trip to Leiria to visit a friend, he became fascinated by the castle, which at the time was little more than ruins.
In 1894, he requested a transfer to the Leiria Industrial School and settled in the city, where he remained for the rest of his life.
Ernesto Korrodi was self-taught, developing his knowledge of history, archaeology and architecture independently.
Discover ten of Leiria’s most iconic buildings shaped by the vision of architect Ernesto Korrodi.
To speak of Ernesto Korrodi is, inevitably, to speak of the restoration of Leiria Castle. This was the project that connected the architect to Leiria. It began with a survey of the remaining ruins and led to the publication, in 1898, of Studies for the Reconstruction of Leiria Castle.
The first consolidation works began in 1910 with the support of the League of Friends of Leiria Castle, founded by Korrodi himself.
During the restoration, work was carried out on the Alcáçova, the Vicar-General’s residence, the buildings adjoining the defensive wall, the wall walks and the gatekeeper’s house, which now serves as the reception area.
The project was so special and inspiring to Ernesto Korrodi that he stated in his will that he wished to be buried facing the castle.
Ernesto Korrodi’s first project in Leiria was the construction of the Town Hall, designed in partnership with José Theriaga and commissioned in 1897. The building was intended to house the Municipal Council, the court, the city prison and the district school.
The main façade features classically inspired decoration with geometric elements. At the top of the building is a coat of arms depicting a three-storey tower, two pine trees—each topped by a raven—and a three-pointed star. Above this composition sits a mural crown with three castles.
Inside, the Noble Hall stands out. Decorated by Korrodi in 1911 with the collaboration of painter and sculptor Luiz Fernandes, it was designed in the Art Nouveau style and inspired by republican ideals. The panels above the doors bear the words “Liberty”, “Fraternity” and “Equality”.
The building was inaugurated on 7 October 1910.
Anyone walking along Rua Capitão Mouzinho de Albuquerque, near Leiria Municipal Market, will almost certainly have noticed the imposing house standing there with the castle as its backdrop. This is Villa Hortênsia, Ernesto Korrodi’s family home, built between 1905 and 1910.
The house brings architecture and sculpture together, combining an urban character with subtle Art Nouveau influences. These can be seen in the stylised wrought-iron railings, the balcony above the porch and the curved, asymmetrical lines at the base of the porch handrail.
Beyond their decorative purpose, these features also reveal Korrodi’s clear concern with integrating the house into its surrounding landscape.
Casa do Arco, located on Rua Afonso de Albuquerque, takes its name from its blue arch overlooking Praça Rodrigues Lobo, which connects the two buildings on either side of the street.
In 1912, Ernesto Korrodi adapted and remodelled the property to expand the living space of the building where José Gaudêncio Barreto lived.
The iconic arch was transformed into a glazed gallery inspired by the former cloister, complete with columns and capitals. Its balconies feature carved stonework, while an interior pergola helps create a romantic, Italian-inspired atmosphere.
Built on the site of the former Santa Ana Convent, which stood there from the 15th to the 19th century and was partially destroyed by a fire during the French invasions, the present-day Mercado de Sant’Ana was designed by Ernesto Korrodi and inaugurated in 1931.
In this project, inspired by 18th-century architecture, Korrodi adopted an eclectic style. The result was an irregular trapezoidal layout, with a series of glazed arches surrounding a large open-air courtyard.
Today, Mercado de Sant’Ana includes an exhibition space, two auditoriums, open-air galleries for events and commercial spaces within the outward-facing arcades. It is an intergenerational venue that encourages social interaction and regularly hosts some of the city’s leading events, including Prove Leiria Doçaria and the Leiria Book Fair.
In 1920, the former Convent of São Francisco was adapted to meet the industrial needs of the Leiria Milling Company, giving rise to this iconic yellow building.
Designed by Ernesto Korrodi, the project added another floor to the original building while preserving the entire 18th-century cloister.
In 1927, plans were drawn up to expand the office and adjoining rooms. This was followed shortly afterwards by the construction of a machinery building beside the factory, used to mill hard maize from the Alentejo region.
More recently, in 2018, the building underwent further renovation and was transformed into the Moagem Heritage residential development, ensuring the preservation of its architectural heritage.
The Marques da Cruz Building, commissioned from Ernesto Korrodi in 1920 by businessman António Marques da Cruz, stands at the junction of Rua Mouzinho de Albuquerque and Rua de São Francisco.
The ground floor was intended for shops and warehouses, particularly for storing wine, while the remaining three floors were designed as residential accommodation.
Reflecting its original purpose, the lower part of the building features a more industrial architectural style with tiled cladding. The upper floors, meanwhile, display decorative elements influenced by the late Gothic and Manueline styles.
The building’s revivalist façade includes references to Leiria Castle and was inspired by traditional 15th-century houses. Its most distinctive features include the intricate stonework around the windows, above the entrance and throughout its other decorative details.
Designed by Ernesto Korrodi, the building was commissioned by the Board of Banco de Portugal and inaugurated in 1929.
It has a symmetrical composition comprising three sections, each framed by pilasters, with the two side sections rising higher than the central one. On the main façade, the columns feature Ionic capitals carved from Lioz limestone, topped by Portugal’s national coat of arms.
The cornices distinguish the building as a notable architectural landmark within its urban surroundings.
Strongly influenced by the Neo-Baroque movement and featuring Art Nouveau details, the building is now home to BAG – Banco das Artes Galeria.
Set within a remarkable green space in the heart of Leiria, Villa Portela was commissioned by Roberto Charters Henriques d’Azevedo in 1894.
The self-sufficient estate was a picturesque enclave on the outskirts of Leiria. Its most striking feature is the three-storey house, which contains more than 20 rooms and is surrounded by grounds featuring a wide variety of plant species of undeniable ecological value to the city.
It was a meeting place for prominent figures from Leiria. Ernesto Korrodi visited frequently, entering through the library, where he would often meet Afonso Lopes Vieira.
The building is currently undergoing restoration work and is set to become an Arts Centre, fulfilling the wishes of its former owner.
On 22 April 1907, Leiria paid tribute to three bishops of the diocese: D. Pedro Vieira da Silva, D. Manuel de Aguiar and D. João Manso. Ernesto Korrodi designed their tomb slabs, which flank the altar of Our Lady of the Conception inside Leiria Cathedral, classified as a National Monument in 2014.
The memorial to D. Manuel de Aguiar is the largest and most imposing, with its tomb chest standing out as the central feature.
The tombs draw inspiration from classical architecture, displaying harmonious proportions, precise geometric forms and a simple interplay of colours created by the marble and bronze.
To discover these and other iconic places around the city, follow the Historic Leiria Route. You won’t regret
